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KAPP / Pacific Paintball double trigger hinge frame

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Here is a neat KAPP / Pacific Paintball double trigger hinge frame that I purchased a couple months back from fellow Southern California Stock player Geoff Wakefield.

Geoff Wakefield's 2001/2002 Autococker with Kapp Chrome double trigger swing frame. Photo courtesy Geoff Wakefield. Geoff Wakefield's 2001/2002 Autococker with Kapp Chrome double trigger swing frame. Photo courtesy Geoff Wakefield.

Wakefield was living and playing in Northern California in the early 2000s when he first saw one of these Kapp Swing frames. He remembers meeting a player at Sherwood Forest, in Vallejo California, c. 2001/2002.

Left side of Kapp Double trigger swing frame. Left side of Kapp Double trigger swing frame.

Geoff writes:
"I heard about the frame at Sherwood paintball in Vallejo. A cool older guy had one. It was the first hinge frame I remembered seeing [for the Autococker]. He gave me the number to Kapp. I had to send my gun in and they sent it back all tuned with the new frame."

Right side of Kapp Double Trigger Swing Frame. Right side of Kapp Double Trigger Swing Frame.

Geoff sold his original frame (and Autococker?) and purchased this example when he came across it this year.

This style swing frame predates the Kapp's Reflex swing frame, and based on Geoff's date of 2001/2002, it falls into the Kapp timeline right around the release of the Kapp Flame Autococker. I'll be setting this frame up on a well used Kapp Flame Autococker I found earlier this year.

Channel for 3 way actuating arm on Kapp Swing Frame. Channel for 3 way actuating arm on Kapp Swing Frame.

Looking over this frame we can see the KAPP logo cut into the side, the pitted in the chrome plating, and the unusually method used for acuating the Autococker switch.

Kapp Logo cut into the side of the frame. Kapp Logo cut into the side of the frame.

This frame uses a brass cylinder cut for the Autococker actuating arms that is inserted in a spring loaded channel. This cylinder is moved back and forth by pivoting the trigger.

Top of Kapp Frame showing brass cylinder that is moved by trigger pivor. Top of Kapp Frame showing brass cylinder that is moved by trigger pivor.

This design makes me wonder if Kapp ever designed a singer finger design that operated the same way? I also wonder how similar the trigger is to an Angel trigger?

Front view of Kapp frame with allen set screw that retains brass cylinder. Front view of Kapp frame with allen set screw that retains brass cylinder.

Find more articles on Kapp at http://www.baccipaintball.com/oldnews/tag/kapp
And on Pacific Paintball at http://www.baccipaintball.com/oldnews/tag/pacific-paintball


1987 Bud Orr Sniper 1 #21, Bud Orr's Personal Paintgun

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Sniper 21 in box upon arrival. Bud Orr Sniper 1 #21 in box upon arrival.

A few months ago, I was offered and accepted the opportunity to be the “caretaker” of sorts for a piece of paintball history….one of the earliest Bud Orr Snipers ever made. I feel more that my role is as a curator, since this, I believe is more of a museum piece that rightfully has a place in the history and evolution of paintball markers. 

Left side view of Sniper 1 #21. Left side view of Sniper 1 #21.

This marker came to me after being put in storage almost 30 years ago, after it saw its last trip to the field. It was received by me, in field used condition, just like the last day that Bud played with it, set up constant air, or “CA,” style, with a 10 ounce thermo valve C02 tank mounted to the stock.

Sniper 1 #21 Wire stock. Sniper 1 #21 Wire stock.

Sniper 1 #21 History c.1987

Before the restoration details, a little history on this particular marker is in order. The following details and information came from direct conversations with its creator, Bud Orr.

Headhunters at Sat Cong Village Hawaiian shirt day c.1987? Bud Orr back row, 2nd from left. Headhunters at Sat Cong Village Hawaiian shirt day c.1987? Bud Orr back row, 2nd from left.

This marker was from the first batch of Snipers ever made by Bud, and was one of 10 or 12 he said he made and put in the hands of some of his fellow Sat Cong Headhunters teammates. Bud’s first batch of Sniper 1 pump paintguns were “prototypes” of a sort.

Un even wear on body. Dark area on body was covered during use by Sat Cong Village brass sticker plate. Un even wear on body. Dark area on body was covered during use by Sat Cong Village brass sticker plate.

The following batches of Snipers that Bud Orr produced would evolve and change based the abuse these early markers saw in the hands of the experienced players and their feedback. This particular marker was one that Bud Orr himself used extensively to put its through its paces. Bud recalled that WGP Sniper 1, serial 21 was made in early 1987 and used frequently that year.

Replacement brass sticker plate, identical to original, created for restoration. Replacement brass sticker plate, identical to original, created for restoration.

It’s not a stretch to say that many features would change in the upcoming batches of Sniper 1s as a result of play with this marker and a few others by Bud and his fellow Headhunter teammates. And these changes would make their way to Sniper 1s sold not only at Bud’s Sat Cong Village Shack, but at various paintball retailers around the country.

Features c.1987-1988

Now to take a look at some of the details and features of this particular marker that make it a unique piece of paintball history. Many things on this Sniper will be recognizable to anyone familiar with the Bud Orr Sniper 1, but a few features will stand out as unique, even to players who’ve used Bud’s markers for decades.

Brass SCV sticker applied to side of body. Brass SCV sticker applied to side of body.

The most apparent detail of this Sniper 1, is the odd color. According to Bud, the first batch of approximately 50 Sniper bodies were anodized at the same time. The ano was to be the standard black the Sniper became known for, and initially, the color seemed correct. Unfortunately, over a short period of time, exposure to the air, atmosphere, or elements turned these Sniper 1s a peculiar color, which Bud dubbed the “Root Beer” ano.

Subsequent anodizing jobs on Bud’s markers were corrected, and turned out the familiar black finish, which sometimes faded to a slightly blued hue as they aged.
Another interesting finishing feature on the left side of the body, is a darker rectangular area that didn’t fade evently with the rest of the marker. This rectagle is where the Worr Game Products / Sat Cong Village sticker was. No sticker remained when I received it this paintgun, but it has since been replaced with a reproduction sticker that is period correct.

Removal of vertical asa reveals serial of #21 on Chuck's Sniper 1 body! Removal of vertical asa reveals serial of #21 on Chuck's Sniper 1 body!

At first glance, the body did not appear to be stamped with a serial number, but upon further inspection, “21” was found in the standard location. The flanged part of the ASA that overlaps the side of the body covered this stamp, and only became clearly visible with the asa removed.

Top view of Vertical asa from Sniper 1 #21. Top view of Vertical asa from Sniper 1 #21.

The ASA itself is milled raw aluminum that was painted black and was likely added after the body was anodized. Most of the paint on the asa has since flaked/worn off.

Gas pass through (banjo hole) in Sniper 21. Gas pass through (banjo hole) in Sniper 21.

Sniper 21 uses the “round” ASA shape. Many incorrectly believe that earliest Snipers had the square ASA design, but the earlist models actually came from Bud with the pictured round design. This round design changed to the square asa block for the following batches of Snipers, and then eventually went back to the round design. What sequences of serial numbers that would have the round asa I do not know, but I do know, from talking to Bud, that this round asa on this Sniper is an original component and has always been on this body.

Bottom of body with rootbeer finish and even some black anodizing remaining. Bottom of body with rootbeer finish and even some black anodizing remaining.

This ASA does not have the pin valve depressor lug in it, and instead uses a bolt that was drilled through the center to attach the ASA to the body. A C02 washer (similar to what a bulk co2 tank would use) is needed inside the ASA to seal against the air hose fitting that screws into it. A C02 washer and thread tape on the air fitting prevented air leakage.

Bud Orr's Patent Pending Stamp on base of body on Sniper 1 #21. Bud Orr's Patent Pending Stamp on base of body on Sniper 1 #21.

Stamped on the underside of the body where the ASA attaches is “Pat Pend,” short for Patent Pending. Also on the underside of the body, you can see a much darker “black” streak, where the grip frame attaches. This is the original black anodizing color which eventually turned the Root Beer color on the exposed areas. The black anodizing on the underside of the body, where the grip frame attached, likely remained black because it was not exposed to the air/elements.

Feed port weld on sniper 1 #21. Feed port weld on sniper 1 #21.

The feedneck is welded on each side, with a slight air through port on the top and bottom. This is the case on most early Snipers until Bud began press fitting the feednecks later on.

Auto Trigger notch on Sniper 1 #21. Auto Trigger notch on Sniper 1 #21.

The left side of the body was milled for an auto trigger set up sometime after being anodized. The raw aluminum in the auto trigger area was painted black at some point to hide/protect it, though the paint had mostly flaked/worn off when I received it.

Bare body and pump rod on Sniper 1 #21. Bare body and pump rod on Sniper 1 #21

The pump guide rod on the front of the body is uniformly round as on most early Snipers. Not sure when it changed, but my Sniper 1, serial number 746, has a flat area factory milled into the guide rod on each side so it could be turned with a wrench, without marring the rod during dissasembly.

Bolt and back block attached. Bolt and back block attached.

The bolt appears to be the standard one hole / three o-ring Sniper 1 style, however there is a small roll pin at the very back top.

Aligning bolt pin with back block cut will mean bolt inlet hole is facing valve. Aligning bolt pin with back block cut will mean bolt inlet hole is facing valve.

This pin slides into a milled out slot in the top of the back block, keeping the back block and bolt aligned properly,and preventing the bolt from being inserted upside down. To my knowledge, this is not a feature that was found on many Sniper 1 models, I know my Sniper 1 #746 does not have it.

Bolt assembly with back block alignment cotter pin from WGP Sniper 1 #21. Bolt assembly with back block alignment cotter pin from WGP Sniper 1 #21.

When screwing the bolt knob/screw back through the back block into the back of the bolt, it could sometimes turn if you were not careful….this roll pin and slot feature on this particular marker prevented that….pretty cool.

Back block on Sniper 1 #21 features top alignment pin not to align with bolt. Back block on Sniper 1 #21 features top alignment pin not to align with bolt.

The back block itself is a faded black anodizing that does not match the Root Beer ano on the body, though it does match up as an early Sniper back block.

Back block with typical wear from use on Sniper 1 #21. Back block with typical wear from use on Sniper 1 #21.

I cannot confirm that this is the original back block, it has been 30 odd years since the swap was made though if so. Perhaps it was swapped (if it was) because of the milled slot and bolt for alignment. As was the norm for very early Snipers, the bolt itself was connected to the back block by a simple flat head bolt, not the knurled black plastic knob as seen on later Sniper 1 production models.
The cocking rod that came on the marker was an early knurled metal one. I am unable to confirm that it is the original, however, I have replaced the cocking rod and the flat head screw with reproductions of the knurled black plastic bolt knob and the smooth head (push/pull type) black plastic cocking rod knob with collar as were found on most Sniper 1 models.

Sniper 1 #21 Internal Components

Internals, hammer, valve, springs, etc…appear to be standard Sheridan based which was normal on most Sniper 1’s.

Cleaned barrel from Sniper 1 #21. Cleaned barrel from Sniper 1 #21.

The barrel is a 13” bull barrel that was anodized to match the body and also faded with only traces of the Root Beer color remaining. It is almost completely back to raw aluminum from wear and use (I told you it was used…..a LOT).

WGP thread Sniper 1 #21 barrel. WGP thread Sniper 1 #21 barrel.

Standard step honed smooth bore inside the barrel. One odd, or notable thing about this barrel is that near the breech end there is a slight groove milled in it all the way around.

Rootbeer anodized barrel threads on Sniper 1 #21. Oring breech seal cut on breech of barrel was a test modification and likely short lived. Rootbeer anodized barrel threads on Sniper 1 #21. Oring breech seal cut on breech of barrel was a test modification and likely short lived.

This groove likely fit an “o” ring, perhaps to help seal the breech?

Front view of Pump on Sniper 1 #21. Front view of Pump on Sniper 1 #21.

Sniper 1 Pump Handle Examination

Sniper #21 uses a standard early Sniper 1 delrin pump, with the guide rod hole going all the way through, leaving no space for a pump handle return spring.

Front of pump handle with pump rod hole drilled straight through. Front of pump handle with pump rod hole drilled straight through.

The photo above show the view directly through the Sniper 1 pump handle from the front.

Pump from Bud Orr Sniper 1 #21 with auto trigger stops on pump rod. Pump from Bud Orr Sniper 1 #21 with auto trigger stops on pump rod.

The pump rod has two nicely milled aluminum auto trigger guides with set screws in each to hold them to the rod. Bud remembered that this marker was one of maybe 2 or so that got this auto trigger modification out of the 10 or 12 that went to his Headhunter teammates to use.

Side view of auto trigger stops. Side view of auto trigger stops.

After testing,they decided to go with the bent rod auto trigger kits for Snipers, instead of milling the side of the body.

Allen set screws in auto trigger assembly. Allen set screws in auto trigger assembly.

The bent style Auto Trigger kits could be added from the factory or purchased aftermarket if desired, with no body modifications.

Thermo nut for tank with brass male vertical asa screw. Thermo nut for tank with brass male vertical asa screw.

Tank, Air Hose and Air Source Adapter (ASA)

The air hose and fittings connecting the thermo valve tank to the marker are standard brass fittings of the day, and the black plastic/rubber wrapped air hose was also common for the late 1980s. The 10 ounce thermo valve tank is dated 8 – 87 and was brand new when added onto Sniper 21.

Date on 10oz tank prior to cleaning. Date on 10oz tank prior to cleaning.

When it came to me, the tank had been wrapped in brown/tan electrical tape to “camo” it up a bit since it is a raw aluminum and not anodized or painted.

Cleaned up and polished 10oz Aluminum tank, original to Sniper 1, number 21. Cleaned up and polished 10oz Aluminum tank, original to Sniper 1, number 21.
Polished 10oz tank exterior reveals date of 8-1987. Polished 10oz tank exterior reveals date of 8-1987.
Thermo tank valve, post cleaning / polishing. Knurled oversize nut on top. Thermo tank valve, post cleaning / polishing. Knurled oversize nut on top.

I removed the tape and cleaned up the tank to look for dings/imperfections and markings/dates.

Inside view of Thermo Nut Inside view of Thermo Nut

The tank mounts to the standard Sheridan “wire” style stock, which is attached to the standard Sheridan grip frame (with cut front tab to clear asa) used stock on Sniper 1’s.

Rootbeer brown faded wire stock tank holder bracket. Top side view (notch fits Sheridan frame compatible wire stock). Rootbeer brown faded wire stock tank holder bracket. Top side view (notch fits Sheridan frame compatible wire stock).
Rootbeer brown faded wire stock tank holder bracket. Bottom side view. Rootbeer brown faded wire stock tank holder bracket. Bottom side view.

A nicely milled tank ring holds the 10 ounce tank to the wire stock. The tank ring was obviously sent out for ano at the same time as the body and barrel, as it has the same “root beer” fade.

UMB Stock bracket and Thermo tank pre restoration and cleaning. UMB Stock bracket and Thermo tank pre restoration and cleaning.

The factory Sheridan paint on the stock and grip frame had really curled up and flaked over the years and the inside of the frame was pretty gunked up with the old paint.

Wood grips that fit Sheridan frame used on WGP Sniper 1 pumps. From Sniper 1 #21. Wood grips that fit Sheridan frame used on WGP Sniper 1 pumps. From Sniper 1 #21.

I removed the wooden grips that had darkened over time, and cleaned them up a bit,

Sniper 1 #21 During Restoration c. 2016

Broken down pre restoration Sniper 1 #21. Broken down pre restoration Sniper 1 #21.

I had the frame and stock stripped and powder coated a matte black to resemble the original finish and still be functional while not interfering with the inner components of the frame.

Broken down post restoration Sniper 1 #21. Broken down post restoration Sniper 1 #21.

Other than the grip frame and stock, no refinishing, anodizing, or painting has been done, just a thorough cleaning and polishing.

Sniper 1 #21 Post Restoration

Chuck Link's Sniper 1 #21 post restoration. Chuck Link's Sniper 1 #21 post restoration.

My intent is to restore this marker to the condition it was in the, when Bud last used it.

Sniper 1 #21 after Chuck Link's restoration. Sniper 1 #21 after Chuck Link's restoration.

After receiving it, I disassembled the marker and cataloged all the pieces, then set about cleaning, polishing and oiling as needed.

Left side view of restored Sniper 1 #21 equipped with stick feed and thermo tank. Left side view of restored Sniper 1 #21 equipped with stick feed and thermo tank.

The restored and reassembled Bud Orr Sniper #21, ready for the museum, trophy wall, or field.

Root Beer Sniper 1 #21 with Sat Cong Village sticker on side. Root Beer Sniper 1 #21 with Sat Cong Village sticker on side.

Hopefully this is close to the condition it would have been in when Bud himself was playing with it at Sat Cong Village during the Spring and Summer of 1987 (and beyond if so).

Sheridan wire stock, with Thermo Tank, matching rootbeer tank holder, Sat Cong Village brass sticker and Sheridan Wood grips on Sniper 1 #21 post restoration. Sheridan wire stock, with Thermo Tank, matching rootbeer tank holder, Sat Cong Village brass sticker and Sheridan Wood grips on Sniper 1 #21 post restoration.

One last note, Sniper 21 is a true testament and tribute to Bud Orr and the markers he created. After I received it, I was spoke with Bud about it, and he asked me if I had any air.

Sniper 1 #21 pump handle and barrel (worn raw). Sniper 1 #21 pump handle and barrel (worn raw).

I did, about half a tank of C02 from another marker. He said this marker had not been aired up or shot in close to 30 years (late 1987/88) and wondered if it would leak and/or shoot.

Left side view of restored Sniper 1 #21 showing Auto Trigger cutout. Left side view of restored Sniper 1 #21 showing Auto Trigger cutout.

I removed the air line and screwed an off/on valve C02 tank directly into the ASA and turned it on. No leaks. Zero.

Sniper 1 #21 equipped with stick feed and thermo tank setup. Sniper 1 #21 equipped with stick feed and thermo tank setup.

Ok….will it cock and shoot? Bolt was a little gummy/sticky….but it did indeed cock, and shoot….and made that sound, so familiar to anyone who has ever used or heard a Sniper shoot.

Chuck Link's Sniper 1 #21 with long barrel, stick feed and thermo tank. Chuck Link's Sniper 1 #21 with long barrel, stick feed and thermo tank.

This marker is a treasure folks, and I am extremely honored and humbled to be the caretaker for this piece of history, though, from the look and sound of it….it could sure still take care of business if needed!

Chuck Link

Editor note:
Chuck Link has been playing paintball since 1987/88 and competed regularly from 1988 till 2002 on TN Grim Reapers, Paladin, The Music City Hooters, Slick Fox Raiders and Team Lightning Strike. Chuck returned to paintball in 2014 and began organizing the KY / TN Stock Group, which promotes pump play with stock class, stick feed, and open class pump games once a month in the KY/TN area. 

We would also like to extend a giant thank you to Bud Orr for trusting Chuck as the caretaker to the piece of history. Chuck writes, "Please thank Bud Orr as well for passing this marker on and allowing us all to see and enjoy this piece of paintball history."

CCM Series 5 Trash Can Regulator History

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David talks about the paintball history behind CCM's Trash Can Regulator. This CCM Series 5 regulator model dates to about 2003. It likely came with both the semi and pump S5 models. The example that David is showing is matte black.

Find more CCM articles at:
http://www.baccipaintball.com/oldnews/tag/ccm

So Cal Stock 2016 Toy Drive at Ambush

Fixing a Bent Belsales Autococker Beavertail

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I set up my camera to record the technique I use to straighten out a bent Autococker Beavertails.

Aside from a vice, the only thing required is a piece of heavy duty steel angle bar. 

On my original facebook post for this video, Russel Miller also comments that in the final portion of the video when I'm bending the bevertail 90 degrees I could heat the metal to prevent it from cracking. Russel writes, "Should mention you could also use heat, like handheld propane torch to keep the angle of the beavertail from cracking while doing this."

Salvatore Astuto also adds that, "They sell L stock and flats stock at Home Depot and lowes. In both steel and aluminum." 

The Belsales Autococker beavertail in this video is from Darryl Trent's 1991 Ironmen Autococker. Find that article here:

http://www.baccipaintball.com/oldnews/darryl-trents-1991-ironmen-autococker

January 2016 UWL SoCal Open at SC Village

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Here is some footage that I recorded last year (January 30th?, 2016) at the Ultimate Woodsball League SOCAL Open, 2016.

This footage isn't great, but it does give the feel of the event and the show the thrill of playing in the woods which comes from crawling through the dirt, hiding behind natural objects hoping your camouflage blends you, and playing on uneven terrain where the advantages of the field reveal themselves through the days games.

This years So Cal Open event is coming up on January 28th and 29th, 2017.

Find the event here:

https://www.facebook.com/events/179699459124023/

And more on the UWL at:

http://playuwl.com/

Pump UWL Practice with The Foot Clan at SC Village

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On January 7th, 2017, Benji, Andre and I drove out to SC Village to help build some bunkers on the UWL field and play some Ultimate Woodsball League practice games with Black Sunday. Andre and I ended up breaking off from the field building to scrimmage with The Foot Clan who will be competing in the UWL pump division.

CCM'd Orracle and Series 5 Pump at SC Village for UWL Practice. CCM's Orracle and CCM Hard Anodized Series 5. Orracle has Pete Clark's barrel plug and S5 has Andre's cast Bacci's Bad Boys' Flip Off Plug.

Although I believe the UWL pump division will be played on the same field as Pro, Open and Tactical, we played quick turn arounds on SC Village's China Beach field. I was impressed with the changes made to the China Beach field since the last time I played it. Bunkers are a lot more dense making movement significantly easier and keeping track of the opposition more challenging.

Benji joined us towards the end of the day and treated Andre to blast some paint off through his LV1.1. Andre hadn't shot an LV1.1 before (or any Electronic Paintgun) so this was a real treat. Towards the end of the string of paint, Andre runs out of air and the LV1.1 turns into a blender. At the end of the day he thinks he'll stick with pump. 

Andre is wearing Nitro Duck "Traditional Adventure Gear" camouflage which I think worked really well for SC Village's terrain.

Find more on Ultimate Woodsball League / UWL here.

And find more UWL videos here.

Breech Drop Carter Machine Stock Class Line SI conversion

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A Stock Class Line SI Conversion by Carter Machine

In November I purchased this unique Carter Machine Line SI conversion off ebay. This Nelson based pump appeared to be a Bore Drop Maximaster conversion similar to what Earon was building for Peter Clark of Peter's Paintball Pursuit Player Products (PPPPP) in the early 1990s. After receiving this pump I realized it was actually breech drop, similar to a Buzzard.

Left side of this Carter Machine Breech drop Maximaster conversion. Left side of this Carter Machine Breech drop Maximaster conversion.

Most of the guns that Carter Machine put together for Peter Clark were Bore Drop so this breech drop was a little unusual but made sense because Clark was likely bringing any pumps he bought to Earon, which I'm sure included some Breech drop as well.

This conversion was likely built by Carter Machine's shop when they were located in Hawthorne. This would have been around 1992-1994? I had thought the base was a Line SI Skirmish, but the Skirmish pump only used one pump arm, where this conversion has two.

Right side of Breech drop Carter Machine Line SI Conversion. Right side of Breech drop Carter Machine Line SI Conversion.

A majority of this marker is polished to go along with the stainless body and barrel threads are Taso. The bolt is an unusual stainless model that I haven't seen before. The bolt doesn't resemble a Line SI Skirmish, Carter Buzzard or Lapco Ghost bolt. I think it might be a Taso Bore Drop bolt that was cut down?  The hammer is Carter Machine (or possible Taso). The Powertube assembly and pump handle are from a Line SI Bushmaster.

I'll be posting a video shooting this Maximaster sometime this week.

Find more on the Maximaster here.


So Cal Stock at Combat Paintball Park - January 14, 2017

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On January 14th, Sonny "Fearless Leader" Phommarine hosted So Cal Stock's modified stock game at Combat Paintball Park in Castaic, California.

In the recent months, CPP has been sold to Critical paintball and changed it's name from California Paintball Park to Combat Paintball Park. This sale means the park is no longer affiliated with Giant Sports.

Super Stock and Flex covered in paint at CPP, January 14th, 2017. Super Stock and Flex covered in paint at CPP, January 14th, 2017.

I haven't played at CPP in the last year but have always enjoyed their fields. I'm not sure if there have been any significant field renovations, but I have heard there will be an air ball field coming to Combat Paintball Park in the upcoming months.

We had a great showing from our group, with likely over 50 players. Sonny also presented his annual So Cal Stock awards to the dedicated players in our group.

Join us next time if your in Southern California at https://www.facebook.com/socalstockgroup

Find more videos at https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJC7papTosfXq_FUQKBvZDNGL87K5X88t

Sheridan KP2 Trigger Group with safety overview

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I was asked last month if I could record a video illustrating the KP2 Sheridan rifle trigger group and all the need parts for it to function.

Sheridan KP2 Trigger Group side view. Sheridan KP2 Trigger Group side view.

This trigger group came out of a PMI / Sheridan KP2 rifle that I disassembled a few months back. It's stock and in good shape but the sear does show some wear on the ridges where it catches the hammer.

Sheridan KP2 Trigger Group top view. Sheridan KP2 Trigger Group top view.

It uses the rocking safety, which has a F (Fire) and a S (Safety) on either side. You push the notch to select either one.

Sheridan KP2 Trigger Group top view. Sheridan KP2 Trigger Group bottom view.

The safety is attached on at the base with two screws.

Sheridan KP2 Trigger group Bottom Side view. Sheridan KP2 Trigger group Bottom Side view.

Sliding the safety to the off position blocks the trigger from releasing the sear by positioning an upright ridge under the trigger.

Sheridan KP2 Trigger group parts. Sheridan KP2 Trigger group parts.

This view details the trigger group which includes the trigger, back cap, trigger spring, trigger spring pin, trigger pin, body pin (both the same length and available here), and the safety assembly.

This trigger assembly also fits the K1, K2 and KP2 rifles. This set up should work in Sheridan Blue Streak Rifles but Blue Streak rifles typically use a single sear trigger and hammer so the part are not interchangeable.

Find Sheridan rifle parts here.

And find more Sheridan articles here.

Niche Paintball's Vector Pump Paintball Marker

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Niche Paintball's new release, The Vector is a modular tube style pump. In this video, recorded last month, at Linh's Charity Game, Robert Lane and Jeff Randall talk with me about some of what sets Niche Paintball's Vector apart from other paintguns available.

Niche Paintball's Vector pictured with Robert and Jeff is a half block but they will also be releasing a mid block and full block version of the Vector. Robert also mentions different frames, semi automatic components and various releases that Niche will be coming out with, all base on and around the Vector base.

Find Niche at http://nichepaintball.com

And more videos with Niche at https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJC7papTosfXDgcimFdoU-PwMXUg4NbPe

 

Rick Cendejas' Early 90's Ironmen Autococker and Splash Minicocker

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In January of 2016 I hung out with Black Sunday at the 2016 SC Village UWL practice. Rick Cendejas was there and showed Benji and I two classic Minicockers he kept around from the early 1990s.

Rick Cendejas' 1991 Ironmen Autococker, cut down to a Minicocker. Rick Cendejas' 1991 Ironmen Autococker, cut down to a Minicocker. Photo courtesy Benji Silverstein.

I recognized one of Rick's Minicockers as the paintgun he posed with on his 1993 Smart Parts Ironmen trading card. 

The other Minicocker that Rick brought out was a neat cut up and matched splashed paintgun that featured a few innovative designs.

A splash minicocker that Rick Cendejas built in the early to mids 1990s. Photo courtesy Benji Silverstein. A splash minicocker that Rick Cendejas built in the early to mids 1990s. Photo courtesy Benji Silverstein.

Both cockers were in somewhat neglected shape and showed signs of water damage or constant exposure to moister over the years. Rick explained that these Cockers and some other gear were stored in "a waterproof container" which cracked over time and "rain came in through the cracks. Lots of stuff was ruined and [he] was sick about it."

The issues main issues appeared to be light surface damage, consisting of rust and oxidization. The anodized aluminum looked surprisingly clean though. These cockers could potentially be a challenge to get apart but should reassemle easy enough and be shooting without too much of an issue.

Rick Cendejas' Smart Parts trading part. Rick Cendejas poses for this 1993/94 Smart Parts trading cart.

So in January of 2016 I purchased the stock bodied Mini from Rick and Benji purchased the splash and cut Mini. The stock bodied Minicocker had more historical significance from my point of view, since it was likely the first cocker that Rick used on the Ironmen. Although as Rick has explained, he didn't play much with the Cockers, moving from a Line SI, to an Hurricane to an F1. But in the Smart Parts' 1993 trading cards Rick is pictured with this Minicocker so I imagine he used it on and off from March 1991 until 1994. The Illustrator came out in fall (October) of 1990 (although not publicly released till a little later) so Rick probably used his Illustrator from end of 1990/early 1991 on and off for a couple years.

Rick's Ironmen Minicocker

I rebuilt the stock bodied Mini over the summer, but when I went to test it I realized the timing wasn't dialed in correctly. I haven't gone back to tweak it but will eventually document it's restoration in a later article.

Rick's Splash Minicocker

Several months back, Benji decided to sell me the splash Mini. Although never a gun Rick used heavily (or at all?), this Minicocker has a couple unique features. The anodizing matches perfectly with a Dirk Gadberry Autococker I purchased last year that was built for Greg Taylor (Bob Long's Ironmen / Ironmen II), but aside from the anodizing, the features don't match anything I'd seen on Gadberry's (Innovative Manufacturing) Autocockers, or Bob Long cockers from the mid 90s.

Left side of Rick's Splash Minicocker with Armson site and Unireg. Left side of Rick's Splash Minicocker with Armson site and Unireg.

The History behind Rick's Splash Minicocker

I asked Rick about the cuts and he explained that he cut this custom Minicocker while working as a machinist at Concord Naval Weapons Station. The base gun was a stock Mini he received as part of the Ironmen's sponsorship with Worr Game Products. Rick writes, "This Autococker was acquired during our sponsorship in the early 1990's, probably close to 1992. I did not make it a Mini, so it must have come that way."

Rick estimates this cocker was built prior to 1994, and coincided with the first splash anodizing jobs being offered by Bob Long. The feed was likely from Pro Team Products / Gun FX.

I sent a photo to Dirk Gadberry and he thinks the Anodizing was done by "Ano Tech in central California." Rick remembers that he used the same shop Bob Long was using at the time for splash anodizing.

The sad thing about this Mini is that Rick doesn't remember ever using it!

He writes, "I don't think it was ever played with [it] or that it was ever shot after all of the work. I was using other markers and it kind of just fell by the wayside."

Left side view of Rick's Splash 1994 Minicocker. Left side view of Rick's Splash 1994 Minicocker.

Unique Modifications

I was also curious why Rick decided to attach a powerfeed?  Not only is it odd that he chose a powerfeed, but the decision to weld it prior to anodizing was unique. The main issue I  have see with the Pro Team Products powerfeeds are the threading on the screws stripping out. Rick commented that he "was impressed with the power feed on [his] wife's MiniMag and the ability to stop the balls from dropping [in]."

On Rick's Line SI Bushmaster I own I've noticed several modifications that Rick added on including the pump handle T grip and a brass hammer. On Rick's early Ironmen Minicocker, pictured above, there are a ton of small cuts that Rick did himself.

Rick on a Monarch Lathe at the Concord Naval Weapons Station in the early 1990s. He writes, "My favorite machine, the Monarch Lathe." Photo courtesy Rick Cendejas. Rick on a Monarch Lathe at the Concord Naval Weapons Station in the early 1990s. He writes, "My favorite machine, the Monarch Lathe." Photo courtesy Rick Cendejas.

And although Rick was a machinist by trade during this period and customized his own markers, he didn't do any complete paintguns for his teammates. He did drill barrel porting in a spiral rifled style similar to Smart Parts' rifling for some teammates and added additional muzzle porting (as seen on the above Ironmen Minicocker).

Rick writes, "I did a lot of barrel porting for the [Ironmen] soon after seeing Smart Parts' barrels."

Disassembly

Breaking down this cocker wasn't as much of a challenge as I expected. As Rick explained, this cocker must have not seen much use, since the none of the screw threads were worn to raw aluminum. Luckily this meant all threads were sufficiently protected against the elements over the last two decades.

I broke this cocker down with the help of Tim Firpo, of Paintball Tek dot com, and we examined the pieces.

The match anodized Armson came apart without issues. I'll likely need to buy another site to replace the rusty pieces. The dot was also somewhat blurred and still is after cleaning. I might just swap out all internals from another Armson ocular site eventually.

Reassembly (to be continued)...

The Air America Unireg had the 1/8th npt burst disc nut completely rusted in. Not a problem, I'll find a replacement Unireg (or a stabilizer to use in the meantime).

Breakdown shot of Rick's Minicocker. Disassembled with the help of Paintball Tek dot com! Breakdown shot of Rick's Minicocker. Disassembled with the help of Paintball Tek dot com!

The trigger plate had significant play so I swapped it out with a thicker plate. The steel stem on the cup seal was rusted into the valve. After the cup seal was switched out, the valve seemed okay.

The Rock, ram and switch are still awaiting a rebuild. Once those are complete I will be testing it out.

Giant thanks to Rick Cendejas for allowing me the opportunity to own these two Autocockers. Another thanks to to Benji for selling the Minicocker he bought from Rick. I'm also glad I had Tim at Paintballtek by my side during the disassembling (I couldn't have taken the trigger shoe off without him!).

Find more on Rick's paintball history at: www.baccipaintball.com/oldnews/tag/rick-cendejas

Vintage Motorized USI Paintball Loader

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Here is a look at The Ultimate Sport Inc.'s (USI's) motorized loader from the mid 1990s. This loader does work and it can be seen (and heard because it's really loud) operating in this video. In the video I'm shooting a Southern Pneumatic's Phoenix (which is over pressurizing and needs a rebuild). Watch me shoot that Phoenix with USI Loader on top at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqYemNWx22g

The actual motor assembly and battery bracket look identical to what came on Viewloader's first VL-2000 which likely debut's slightly before USI's loader.

Because of the very close resemblance to Viewloader's components I actually am wondering if USI purchased the components from Viewloader but the likelihood is that USI just ripped off viewloader's design.

I would guess this USI loader debuted in 1994/95? 

Find more videos on paintball loaders at https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJC7papTosfUA4JKBsCgPsSQxz8zkk4e9

KC No Hot Shots Paintball Regulator and Southport Reg Disassembly Videos

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I recorded this video a while back showing the disassembly and reassembly of a Southern Pneumatics Southport / KC No Hot Shots Paintball Regulator made by Eric Scott at Southern Pneumatics and distributed by David Kermode at Kermode Concepts.

You can see the internals clearly in this video including the belleville washers used in construction and how this regulator is nearly identical to the later KC No Hot Shot, Sheridan RG1 and the CMI Regulators.

And another look at the internal pistol and assembly from one of the Southport / No Hot Shot Regs.

The Gold Southport reg is the original design and David Kermode saw too many safety issues with the gold regs so he re designed the body and broke his partnership with Eric Scott (who made the gold regs). Kermode is more well known for his KC Trouble Free Oil though.

Find more articles on the history behind Kermode Concepts at http://www.baccipaintball.com/oldnews/tag/kc/

And articles on Southern Pneumatics at http://www.baccipaintball.com/oldnews/tag/southern-pneumatics/

And find parts for KC, Sheridan and Southern Pneumatic regs at http://www.baccipaintball.com/air-bottomlines/regs/kc-no-hot-shots.html

Todd Winokur shoots a Confetti Splash Kapp Razorback

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Kapp's Confetti Splash was one of the standard anodizing patterns their late 90 and very early 2000 Autocockers came with but was produced in far less quantity then their Water and Lava patterns on both vertical feed bodies and Razorback bodies. Tim Firpo at Paintball Tek dot Com has one of these bodies (which can be seen in an old post here) which is missing the back block. A few others have popped up over the years but they are no where near as common as the red lava and the blue water bodies that Kapp produced in both the Razorback style and their signature style.

Over the last weekend at So Cal Stock's Autocockers and Automags vs Pumps game at Ambush Paintball I saw another example of this anodizing pattern on Todd Winokur's Razorback and I recorded this quick video of Todd cycling it.

Find more articles on Kapp at http://www.baccipaintball.com/oldnews/tag/kapp And more on Todd's Paintball history at http://www.baccipaintball.com/oldnews/tag/todd-winokur


Hard Anodized Pre 1990 Line SI Bushmaster

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Pre 1990 body Line SI Bushmaster with hard anodized Diamond Dust finish. Pre 1990 body Line SI Bushmaster with hard anodized Diamond Dust finish.

Here is a pre 1990 Line SI Bushmaster in Line SI's hard anodized Diamond Dust finish that I found this on ebay last month. More of these diamond dust finish body have popped up over the last couple years which makes me think they were sold in a larger capacity than I initially though.

Pre 1990 snub body designated the body and valve style that are interchangeable with stock nelspot valves and bodies. For example I could remove the Taso style valve off the Bushmaster and place it on a stock Nelpot 007 pistol.

Left side of Diamond Dust Bushmaster. Left side of Diamond Dust Bushmaster.

SI is engraved on pump arm and grip frame in standard spots. This example has had the thumb screws replaced with standard allen grub screws. 

The internals on this Bushmaster are stock Line SI and the trigger shoe appears to be cast and anodized aluminum.

Bushmaster engraving on body of Line SI Bushmaster. Bushmaster engraving on body of Line SI Bushmaster.

The body also has the typical "Bushmaster SI" engraving. The black anodized pump, grip frame and site rail all show wear and the barrel is especially worn. Surprisingly the green hard anodized body looks great.

Right side stainless "SI" thumb screws on pump arm. Right side stainless "SI" thumb screws on pump arm.

Although the thumb screws were replaced, the stainless Line "SI" pump arm screws were still intact. These are usually the first to go and the last to be re placed. I'm not sure what the fate of this Bushmaster will be. I might replace the body with a standard black body and sell it and keep the green body for a project or I might keep it as is.

Find Line SI history at http://www.baccipaintball.com/oldnews/tag/line-si

PBDA Episode 5 - Ambush, sock hats, paintball rap

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Be sure to start this episode at 14 minutes to skip our set up technical issues.

In the fifth installment of our PBDA webcast (Paul, Benji, Dan and Andre (missing)), we talk about our recent Autocockers and Automags vs Pump game at Ambush Paintball Park, show off some paintball sock hats, Benji plays his paintball rap, and we preview one of our PBDA shorts.

We actually recorded a couple short videos but only finished one in time to air it.

With this live streamed web series we've been incorporating more and more technical aspects which have caused issues as we try to figure each problem out but we are getting closer and closer to a trouble free broadcast.

Here is a brief list of items we talk about in this broadcast:

John Pope's Autococker

David Freeman photos including a picture of the Direct Connect Panther.

Alien Magma Sock Hats

Paul's Chris Cole Voodoo Autococker

Parts phantom with Rainman undercocker and RTR frame.

Cool Pro Mask by Nasty Boys

Goggs mask

Benji's Red Automag

#PBDA hashtag

Mini Winny (Winchester)

SFT Shocker (Seal Forward Technology)

Tim at Paintballtek DOT COM

Belsales Evolution and Angry Frames

Andre couldn't join us in this episode but hopefully we will have our whole crew for the next episode. 

Find Paul at https://www.youtube.com/fpspaul

Find Benji at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwdA-UzcbY79ar5wTPH9jSA

And Find Andre on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/apmarchand/

And more episodes of PBDA at:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJC7papTosfU78wPolRyglUTRdmWGb0vi

Montneel Z1 Breech Quick Strip

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Montneel Z1 serial 11001, left side. Montneel Z1 serial 11001, left side.

Here is a video I recorded a while back showing the quick strip process on a Montneel Z1 semi automatic. I'm not sure on the production date on this Z1 but it's likely 93-95 since the serial number is on the higher end (11001).

I recorded this video on my phone with one hand so it's not great but it does illustrate the easy as which the breech can be removed on this early inline blowback. To remove the breech and barrel you unscrew the two thumbscrews on the bottom side and then you can slide the breech and barrel assembly off.

Right side of this Montneel Z1. Right side of this Montneel Z1.

Find Montneel Z1 parts on baccipaintball at http://www.baccipaintball.com/parts/semi/montneel.html

Thruster Regulator for Air Power Vector c.1995-96

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Here is a Thruster regulator built by Air America for the Vector pneumatically actuated paintball marker. Likely year on this reg is around 1995 to 96 and would accompany some of the higher end custom vectors.

In this video I show a one handed breakdown (or partial breakdown) on this reg and the belleville washers (springs) used to adjust it. Other regs around this time using the Belleville spring pack were the Southport reg, Dave Kermodes KC No Hot Shot Reg and The Sheridan RG-1 Reg.  

I asked on facebook if anyone remembers using these regs on paintguns other than the Vector and Mikko Kurki-Suonio commented:

"I had one back in the day. I had the remote version, which came with an ASA stock. No reason you couldn't use it with any gun, but I never saw one except with Vector.

The tournament lock is badly designed. If you tighten it hard, you change the settings.

Ahhh... The Vector. It was actually really good except for some design choices mostly caused by Air Power's pigheadedness about wanting to go for the military/police training market and refusing to make changes requested by hobby players.

The output range is probably something like 600-800psi."

Find more Air Power articles on Vectors and Thruster Regs at:

http://www.baccipaintball.com/oldnews/tag/air-power

Oh Mag Minimag by Oh Pawlak of Predator Paintball c.1996

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Benji's Oh-Mag in reg and black splash. Left side view. Benji's Oh-Mag in reg and black splash. Left side view.

Benji's Red, Black and Silver Splashed and Cut Minimag

A couple years back Benji picked up this splashed Minimag with a Predator Marketing branded valve. We didn't know if the valve was original and hadn't seen examples of Predator Marketing Oh-Mags so we began brainstorming who might have done the modifications.

Research Indicates this is Not a John Gross / Team Strange Automag

Based on the splash pattern I initially assumed this was a Team Strange paintgun and possibly milled by John Gross. So Benji and I compared he Splash, cuts and looked for identifying initials, which John Gross would add to most paintguns he modified.

Russell Breeden minicocker sniper 3 left A Russell Breeden Sniper 3, anodized in the Team Strange Colors of Red, Black and Silver for Robert Peterson.

Robert Peterson, of Team Strange told me several years back that the splash pattern pictured on his Russell K Breeden (RKB) Sniper above was typically done for Team Strange by PK Selective. He writes, "At one time we required any player that played for [Team Strange] to get their gun anodized that color."

Closely comparing the splash patterns between Benji's Automag and the RKB Sniper we can see that the white/silver splash is more prevalent in the Minimag's pattern. In the Team Strange pattern (on Peterson's RKB Sniper) the whites/silvers are more minimal.

John Gross / Florida Paintball Supply Automag. John Gross / Florida Paintball Supply Automag.

When comparing Benji's Minimag to other Airgun Designs Mags cut by John Gross we couldn't pin point any similarities. The cuts on the rail, frame and vert foregrip were visually different than John Gross' mags. This wasn't too surprising since many of John Gross' paintguns were unique one offs. 

But what did show we were not on the right track was that Benji's Minimag lacked any initials cut into it. Most paintguns (Automags and Autocockers) built by John Gross, out of Florida Paintball Supply, featured either his initials, JG, or the acronym for Florida Paintball Supply, FPS, cut in.

A Clue from Action Pursuit Games

Oh-Mag write up in the December 1996 issue of APG. Oh-Mag write up in the December 1996 issue of APG.

Looking through Action Pursuit Games several months later we found a photo of a nearly identical Automag sold by Oh Pawlak, out of Predator Paintball in Sacramento, published in the December 1996 issue. The Automag in this small write up featured a nearly identical splash pattern and the same Oh Mag sticker on the valve.

Oh-Mag advertised in the December 1996 issue of APG, close up. Oh-Mag advertised in the December 1996 issue of APG, close up.

A couple of the take aways from this clear photos of an "Oh" Mag are the following:

  1. Circular cut on left side of body.
  2. Flat milled indentations in the rail (4 flat cuts on either side).
  3. Match anodized Pro Teams or Gun FX frame
  4. Flat milled indentations in the barrel.
  5. Spiral porting in the barrel.
  6. Oh Mag Badge on the valve.
  7. Powerfeed attachment 
Benji's Oh-Mag in reg and black splash. Right side view. Benji's Oh-Mag in red and black splash. Right side view.

Benji's Minimag contains many of these details but is equipped with a Minimag body and a raw or clear ano vertical foregrip.

History from Dirk Gaderry of Innovative Manufacturing

I emailed Dirk Gadberry, of the Ironmen and Innovative Manufacturing, to ask if he knew any details on who did the machining for Oh Pawlak, since he was located in close proximity to Predator Paintball during the time these were made. He explained that he did the cuts on these Automags at Innovative Manufacturing, and that they started with internal mods and later did external modifications between 1996 and 97.

Dirk writes, "At first we were doing internal mods to customer guns. [We] added transfer holes, from one to approximately 8-12 and a face groove in [the] reg side, all to increase flow through [the] reg.

We also modified and later just completely replaced the brass spacer in the trigger on off switch. Later we stared making vert asas, milling slots in the trigger rail and in the stainless body on the barrel end.

I think [Oh Pawlak] was selling [Oh-Mags as] complete guns [in] 1996-97. [There were] probably less than 200 total. [Anodizing was] done by Tod and Mike at Anotech. Oh [Pawlak] was playing for Tour de force and Bad Company [at the time]."

Oh-Mag valve badge by Predator Marketing and Oh Pawlak. Oh-Mag valve badge by Predator Marketing and Oh Pawlak.

The valve does have the Oh-Mag badge, with Oh Pawlak's signature, and Predator Marketing's logo. I haven't opened up the valve so I can't say what internal mods this specific Minimag has.

Oh Pawlak talks about why he shoots and sold Automags with Warpig in the following article (first archived in December 1996 by web.archive.org):

http://www.warpig.com/paintball/articles/hotseat/oh.powlak.shtml

Close up on Oh-Mag Valve. Close up on Oh-Mag Valve.

Above is a close up of the embossed metal sticker on this Oh-Mag. You can see a blue sticker underneath, similar to how old car registration tags stack up on a license plate.

Dirk also Cut the Barrel

Matching barrel on Oh-Mag. Showing Breech hole side. Matching barrel on Oh Mag. Showing Breech hole side.

Looking at the cuts on the Oh Mag barrel. the back portion has flat indentations and the front half is spiral ported. On seeing the barrel Dirk commented, "I made that barrel also out of a stock barrel."

Matching barrel on Oh-Mag. Showing Twistlock detent side. Matching barrel on Oh Mag. Showing Twistlock detent side.

The back edge fades to black where this barrel would fit into the breech. Again the silver splash is more bold than the splash pattern on the Team Strange paintguns and completely different.

Oh Pawlak shirt back side. Oh Pawlak shirt back side.

Oh Pawlak T Shirt

And of course a look at an Oh Pawlak product would not be complete without some mention of Oh marketing himself. He was well known for his product endorsements and ads campaigns while wearing his signature plaid jersey. Although I don't own one of the plaid jerseys here is a stained up Scott shirt.

Front side of Scott shirt marked for Oh Pawlak. Front side of Scott shirt marked for Oh Pawlak.

Probably should wash this carefully but I'm afraid I'll wash off the precious signature.

Find more Oh Pawlak paintball history articles here.

And find Benji on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/bigbthebenji/

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